Hangboard with app. Sep 7, 2018 · I appreciate everyone getting a kick out of this. Been using it for apartment-life hangboarding. . On the weekend, I'll go to the gym (two hours away) or go climb outdoors, occasionally both. Cheers Sep 12, 2018 · The team spends maybe 15 minutes on the hangboard 1x/wk with open crimp grips. I've successfully hung a hangboard in a similar manner before, although that time there was a stud right where I was expecting it to be and I didn't have to do this much work. It is surprisingly adequate. May 13, 2024 · I'm in the market for a hangboard that I can train my fingerstrength on. With rest and rotations, each person probably only does 2 minutes of it. I don't claim to be an expert, but I know enough to know there should have been a stud there. Feb 17, 2022 · This is a bit of a tangent from the OP question about the university gym, but if we're talking about attaching a hangboard to a door mount pull-up bar - this is my setup. I should have been more specific about my volume - the "Two days of hangboard, three days of climbing" was a maximum. I'm currently stuck on 7a (Europe) or 5. Of course my max strength sucked, and was probably the lowest it ever gets to be, in the course of the year, while my power endurance/climbing fitness was great, probably at/near its peak! Jun 13, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Mar 18, 2020 · So the question isn't how often you can hangboard, but what is a reasonable total load. Jul 23, 2014 · Thanks guys. I have a few years experience on the hangboard but I typically only use it for either a few max hangs or a few short sets of repeaters as a final warm up before climbing on the moon board. If anyone is willing to share about their experience finger training while injured or offer programming advice for workouts I would be very grateful. The hangboard protocol I decided to follow is the 7:3s 40% deadhang repeaters on the Crimpd app (10 sets of 6 7:3s repeaters at 40 percent of max load, one minute rest between sets). I know hangboards are generally frowned upon for youth climbers, but I haven't read any research on the detriments of hangboards for youth. I'm currently doing this twice a week. 11d (USA) and I feel like the finger strength is keeping me back from climbing harder projects. I'm mainly looking 25mm/20mm/15mm edges, and a nice bonus would be some slopers. I don't really care about 1 or 2 finger pockets. I do it once in half crimp position, take a long rest, and repeat in 3 finger drag. Feb 17, 2022 · This is a bit of a tangent from the OP question about the university gym, but if we're talking about attaching a hangboard to a door mount pull-up bar - this is my setup. It's a bit lower than ideal hangboard height, so you're hanging with knees bent. Generally I'll do two hangboard sessions on weekdays and one day of woody climbing. Mar 20, 2023 · Which means that I hadn’t bouldered or touched a hangboard for couple months, and rarely needed to pull on anything as small as 20mm. For a given total training load, this could mean a medium intensity, high-volume repeaters session (RCTM-type protocol) every third day, or low-intensity, low-volume hangs three times a day, or anything in between. vzvvl clkx mznqjozl kdrlh fhuj velp xvjfleem baygmeql oerwe triq