Multi pitch belay with grigri reddit. Redirection is not an issue there.
Multi pitch belay with grigri reddit 9mm; Auto-Block Assisted Braking; Great for multi-pitch & alpine climbing with half & twin rope systems; Get The Nano Jul. If bringing the Grigri, leader gets a Grigri belay and follower gets an ATC auto-blocking plaquette belay. Good job. If your partner starts to lead he will already have a solid jesus piece set up. I do mostly multi-pitch trad with long approaches so I want to go as light as possible. With multi-pitch you can use an ATC, but for single pitch sport there is no reason to use an ATC over a Gri Gri unless you are just a luddite. Hi climbers, I’m planning on top rope soloing a 50m single pitch, anchor at the top, throw my 70m rope down, rap, and then climb back up. Redirection is not an issue there. And those were absolutely garbage for giving slack quickly or making a soft catch. Our ground practice of a fixed point lead belay felt awkward, so we've just been using a harness lead. We were talking about the logistics of this 4-pitch 5. May 28, 2024 · Petzl Gri Gri: Best for beginners Read why: Assisted Braking Device: 8. Petzl fan boy and replaced my Trango/Original Reverso. I find I primarily belay with the GriGri now, there is a bit of a learning curve to belay a leader, but once you have it down it's just as easy as any other device. ATC (Air Traffic Controller) is the name for a specific type of tube style belay device made by Black Diamond. A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. A simple overhand with a biner might be OK, but it will slip through until tight and be difficult to loosen later. Original Reverso for long multi-pitch cimbs and don't want to carry a gri-gri Trango grip for heavier friends and really good for single rope rappel. 4 and a 9. IIRC the passive assisted devices like the Jul weren’t around then either. I use either a GriGri2 or an ATC Guide. Feb 17, 2024 · 5. Trying to decide between a 9. I dont know your experience level. I've run out of rope too, but really it's usually that I couldn't hear my partner warning me because I was so far, not because there was no place I could have stopped to belay. If youre planning on doing multipitch, you have to consider what you will do in a scenario where you have to bail mid climb. 1. Especially for trad. It does add a few ounces and require throwing an extra ATC on the back of your climbing I can't find the source right now but one of the review videos mentioned it. Personally, not a big fan for all the "minimalist" sport climbing devices (think ATC Pilot, Mega Jul). IMO the megajul is the best because of its size/weight and its functions (assisted brake, ability to rap with two strands or belay on half ropes). Don’t run the brake strand over the handle. On the subject Tagline we refer to a separate article. In practice, you have the climber's weight on you and the trick is to lock off the belay tight first, and then make a backup knot. The Neox is for anyone who can't pump out slack fast while maintaining a brake hand by thumbing the cam. But pure sport multi pitch routes are super rare and will usually be mixed/trad lines, so the progression usually is: single pitch sport > single pitch trad > multi pitch trad I'll second the advice of everyone saying just do easier multi-pitch routes. The same horn that keeps it from crossloading makes it really easy for the grigri to fall off the carabiner when you're opening it, creating a higher risk of dropping your belay device. You’ll need to learn to belay from above if you want to safely bring your buddy on any route with more than one pitch. If you were to visit your local crag or gym right now to see which belay devices were most commonly hanging from the harnesses of local climbers, we guarantee you 3. The result is a comprehensive comparison-t 46 votes, 34 comments. That gri-gri is for right handed people. Swap as necessary. If it’s a walk off, then there’s little complications for most climbers with a standard UK skill set. I learned to lead belay when someone handed me a rope, said "you know what you're doing", and setoff up a 5. Jan 3, 2024 · The ATC is typically better suited to multi-pitch climbing and alpine environments. ) Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. 5 mm: 92 g / 3. The ATC really only ever sees use when rappelling. Recently I've added the Neox. If you can do this, you don't need or Neox. 6 in a gym while watching me over their shoulder. One of those friends, really prefers to use a GriGri to lead belay people, and asks that her belay partner use one when she climbs. If you are left handed, just boulder. And yes we are scared of falling. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Personally, I use my ATC more still, but having the grigri for those situations where it's less safe for the belayer is helpful, and it isn't that much harder to belay with once you've used it a few times, provided you've already learnt to lead belay - it is definitely easier to pick up lead belaying on ATC just because you can just focus on Grigri for everything single pitch. It's a great Swiss-army-knife of belay devices. If you want to climb multi-pitch sometime get a reverso or mega jul. A tube belay device with guide mode does it all, belays, top belay, and rappels. The weight discrepancy here is inappropriate. I have a 10. Undo the figure eight and clean the first anchor. I can do that with the Gri-Gri just fine, but an ATC is simply easier. The ATC sees most use, the Gri-Gri usually comes out when I am belaying someone who's working a project (lots of hangdogging), or when my hands are tired because I just did a hard route myself. For abseiling, the single rope must either be of the necessary length or a tagline must be used. Multpitch: 1X Grigri + 1X ATC, or 2X ATC, depending on the situation. Once he's down at the next anchor, take the gri-gri off the rope. Just looked this up to double check. The leader is belayed on the Grigri, then brings up the follower on the ATC in guide mode. Multi-pitch worthy, this device lets you belay a leader, bring up one or two followers, and of course, rappel on it. A 5. . Idk how anyone could ever call the mammut smart smooth tho, I gave mine away after a couple weeks and just bought a grigri Dec 15, 2021 · Belaying from above is most common on multi-pitch climbs. Trad Climbing Eventually, you can upgrade to a device like the ATC Guide, or Petzl Reverso for outside multi-pitch routes. Put simply, I have yet to hear a convincing rationale for belaying a leader with a non-assisted-braking device. Winning Features 2. All that said I personally recommend having your first belay device be an ATC (or another brands tubular belay device) as it is a cheaper, simpler device and it helps instill better belay habits (you can’t get sucked into trusting the assisted braking mechanism as if it is an automatic braking system like some newer climbers do) Ditch the grigri, get a tube belay device that has guide mode. 9 route at El Chorro when we ended up talking about rappelling, he explained to me his preferred method, at first it sounded all too sketchy May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Top rope, lead, multi pitch, rope ascension, single-line raps; the device does a lot. With that said: basic gear for multi pitch free climbing would include a helmet for each climber, rock shoes, chalk bag, a dynamic rope in the 10mm or greater range and of length in excess of 60m (more common in 70m or greater these days), possibly a second rope depending on how long the rappels will be to get off the route, climbing protection Once again, you should not make blanket statements and write ALWAYS or NEVER in climbing. Reverso 2 and 3 as they came out. The physicality is identical (for top rope belaying. The Grigri is a more versatile device. The only good thing I actually see here is using a stainless quick link to attach the Gri-Gri. a place to celebrate the art of hold shaping, route setting, yogapants, sending, comp's and… I just use these for toproping and rappelling/belaying a second on multi pitch, rope runs through the atc in guide mode much better with the bigger round surface. 5 to 11 mm: 175 g / 6. It's nice and smooth and will handle a factor 2 fall pretty good. If the Giga jul fixes the issues most people have with the megajul, you'd only need to own one device that did everything, instead of using a reverso for trad/multi-pitch and a GriGri for single pitch sport climbing. 8 rope. 25 oz: 50: Black Diamond ATC Guide: Best for multi-pitch Read why: Tubular Belay Device: 8. a Grigri) and steel, V-shaped rope groove (as opposed to the way the Grigri twists the brake strand over a rounded lip). The GriGri and the GriGri+ have exaclty the same cam geometry. Essentially, Petzl has said the Neox is a specialized belay device for single pitch use, not a replacement for Gri Gri in all use cases. The home of Climbing on reddit. Jun 23, 2024 · I've had every GriGri over the years including the +. And we (partner and I) quickly realize that we prefered ATC for multi-pitch crags and Grigri for single-pitch sport routes. Jan 22, 2025 · Anthony’s theory is that the added resistance comes from the Pinch’s visibly smaller rope channel (vs. I'm very comfortable with my ATC. It has belayed my partner up my first multipitch, caught countless whippers at the gym(my partner outweighs me my 40+ pounds), yadda yadda. e. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. 2 right now and its too heavy and doesn't work well in guide mode with my ATC. Dec 22, 2022 · It’s inevitable because the Grigri and ATC are tried and true powerhouses in every style of climbing, from sport climbing indoors to traditional multi-pitch rock climbing outside. For rappels fix the rope in the middle, first person rappels with Grigri on single strand. You might be used to single pitch bolted routes where you have plenty of room to move around or "hop". It locks like a GriGri with no moving parts, feeds like an ATC, can belay a second or two followers, and can feed a double-strand rappel. It's much the same as in the EpicTV video (Jul2 vs Pilot belay test) where he shows two methods to lower - one is to use your thumb to lift the device while having that hand still around the brake rope (same position as regular belaying with it), and the other is to pinch the device with thumb and two fingers. Beyond belay+anchor+rap+PAS materials, the only time I'm bringing anything else is on a 4+ pitch route (water bottle clipped to my harness, plus a little food in the follower's pack if it's >=200m long), or an alpine trad route (add a tiny multi-knife and 20' of cord in the follower's pack). I carry a Petzl Reverso 4 and a GriGri 2 mostly when I go out. Even if you decide to stick to single pitch stuff, it's far You need 70 to do any single pitch >100ft so you can get lowered, but you can go 200ft with a 60 on a multi-pitch. On rappel thread the single rope as normal, but then do a biner block with a clove on the spine of a biner and set it against the rap ring (or an 8 and locker clipped in if you're paranoid). I like the assisted breaking and it makes me feel a bit safer as a belayer if something were to happen (rock fall, for example), b For the assisted braking when lead belaying. I'm considering getting a gri-gri just for multipitch trad. Q: Is a Grigri safer than an ATC? If you want an assisted braking device, spend the money and get a grigri. 6. But, I come from multi-pitch trad with stances on small ledges and/or hanging belays. The consensus, stop trying to fight it and just get a gri-gri and an atc guide. We're currently belaying with the mammut smart. There are some multi pitch sport routes in my area and I want to start climbing them so I’m looking for some tips on the additional skills needed such as belaying from a set of anchor bolts Once you get the hang of it there is no possible way you could feed slack faster with an ATC than a Gri-Gri and the less time that extra slack is in the system the better off your climber is. Apr 27, 2021 · For some climbers, that’s enough to count the GriGri out as a multi-pitch device. 1 Grigri and 1 Guide/Reverso/whatever per team. Second unties the knot and raps both strands on the other device, with partner giving fireman belay. Although I have no experience with the Alpine-Up, before buying a "high tech" belay device I experimented with a few and read basically every thread on the internet. 8oz; 7. Grigri plus is basically designed for new climbers, it's not a "new" or "upgraded" model. Nov 22, 2023 · On multi-pitch, i like the system of taking one gri-gri and one ATC guide, belaying the leader with the gri-gri and the follower with the guide, and swapping the devices back and forth. He said, “The V groove straightened out the rope while lowering and rappelling,” with less kinking than a Grigri. This means that any route you have to rappel off of pretty much requires an ATC or equivalent. 9 multipitch if the route is good. Grigri doesnt have the flexibility for rappelling that a tube device has. FWIW I use my grigri for almost everything and I usually don't carry a second device. On the matter of fixed-point belay, guides from AMGA, IFMGA, ACMG (Canadian), ENSA (French guide school) and DAV (German) has recommended munter hitch or tube style device, and recommended against the use of Grigri bc of less rope slippage, and potential increased force on the top placement. 11/12 leader can still have fun on 5. The grigri is over hyped. Posted by u/beanwatertester - 13 votes and 42 comments If you're doing sport multi pitch you don't need much else than some slings/cordelette, something to belay a follower from above with, and some extra lockers, really. For trad i always use and ATC style so i can rappel and use double ropes. But central point belay and body belay do have their place some times. clipped on the actual anchor and not on the leaders harness. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. However, it is still worth carrying prusiks, and perhaps a stitchplate like a CAMP Ovo or Kong GiGi, for rescue applications. The Petzl Gri-Gri is a great device for belaying a sport climber, just make sure you get the Gri-Gri 2 or make sure your rope is 10mm or bigger if you get one of the originals. If you can belay on a Grigri, you can belay on an ATC. 7. I will always bring a grigri OR a megajul. I don't like using a Grigri for follower belay because the rope backfeeds easily, especially on steep pitches. 82 oz: 35: Mammut Smart That's true, and I'm not the paragon of safety, admittedly. To make matters worse, the GriGri is nearly double the weight of even the ATC-Guide. I will climb with a grigri for lead belaying and an ATC guide or gigi/ovo plate for belaying the follower. Oct 5, 2024 · Anyone who wants to belay on multi-pitch routes with the Grigri or Neox can only do so using a single rope. The follower is way too small to belay that leader safely. I recently moved to Spain and found a new climbing partner, he's been sport climbing for the past 3-4 years but has never got into multi-pitch routes. For rappels fix the rope at the midpoint and the first climber raps a single strand on the Grigri. 6K subscribers in the Indoorclimbing community. FAQs About Belay Devices. Advantages and disadvantages of a single rope in multi-pitch climbing I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on the shelf as my belay device. And when I'm belaying someone who's lead-climbing, I generally prefer the ATC. Follower is belayed in guide mode. In practice, I think the GriGri is often still worth it as a multi-pitch belay device. Multi-pitch adds its own challenges for your friends beyond the grade (route finding comes to mind) and a good multi-pitch will be fun even if you aren't pushing your limit on grade. On a multi-pitch, upon finishing their lead, the lead climber needs to bring their second up to their anchor station before they can start on the next pitch. I don't need mine and will get rid of it. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. This means that, in this configuration, it relies on a push button, an internal safety that won't allow it to unlock when cammed and I learned to lead belay over 15 years ago, before the Grigri 2 came out, and we just had the clunky original grigri. It is the most common belay device, and you should know how to use one. I also don't waste time teaching people to belay on an ATC. It seems the combination of a lack of immediate lock up and significantly reduced friction makes it less suitable. ATCs are more vesitile, if you're climging grows towards the outdoors, there are plenty of scenarios where a grigri won't be the tool you want it's a more "funtamental" belay tool, there are lots of belay tools that behave mostly like an ATC (including grigri with a few exceptions), so the technique will transfer over to other tools In my experience, the Rhino is a great belay carabiner for gym and single pitch, but I don't like using it with my grigri on multi-pitch. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. More expensive, heavier, super crappy modulation for lowering and I found it comparably impossible to feed slack without the device locking and me being forced to thumb down the camming mech. Going to use a standard grigri on my belay loop and a Petzl shunt as a backup on my leg loop (but also pas’d up to my main harness loops). We both have the regular and the double. One distinct advantage it has over the Gri-Gri is that it can be used for a double-rope rappel. They make various flavours of it as well. ) now so that you don't buy the Pilot or XP, and when you decide to do multi pitch (or climb with twin/half ropes), you have to then purchase a second device. Leader is belayed on a Grigri, while carrying the other belay device. Descent is an important consideration when deciding to climb a multi-pitch on a GriGri. 1 to 11mm: 80g / 2. Use a HMS belay or a Gri-Gri. I use a gri-gri for all single pitch sport because it much easier to hold people and take in rope when they are working a hard route. Yes, even in multi-pitch. Pass the other end of the rope through the gri-gri and let the first one lower himself using the gri-gri. Because if you were then it wouldn't matter whether you belay with an ATC or a GriGri because you should be prepared and confident to belay with either. IMO in most situations the ideal is two devices total for two multi pitch partners: 1 Reverso/Guide, 1 Grigri. 7 to 10. I am not that old but I prefer old school gear and technic although my new gf lives her to belay with her grigri and given our weight differences it might not be a bad idea to have a device that limit the amount of rope slippage in the even of a fall. Might as well invest in a slightly more expensive guide-style device (BD ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, Grivel Belay Master Pro, etc. Again: personal preference at its best :) Moreover, now I am checking the technical notice and Petzl doesn't explain the top-belay settings. I usually buy 2 belay device and carry 2 on long climbs in case one gets dropped. Dec 5, 2024 · A unique combination of many different belay modes in one device: Simple, durable, and optimal value for multi pitch climbs: Ideal for alpine environments where the ropes are slim and the ounces count: Smooth rope handling and a simple design all packed in to a mere two ounces: Low price pairs well with the basic tube style design and reliability I have never climbed with two followers -- and I prefer to lead belay with a GriGri -- so I generally use a GriGri setup in guide mode on the anchor for belaying a follower. It's rare that I would want to go further. My brother and I climb exclusively with the Smart Alpine. When you're approaching the belay stance as a climber: Climb a bit above the belay to a solid point of protection, clip it, climb down, build your anchor and belay through this redirection. I’ve been seeing more people bringing up followers on multi pitch routes using grigri‘s from above, i. 17 oz: 110: Black Diamond ATC Pilot: Best for gym climbing Read why: Assisted Braking Device: 8. 1–8. Your statement would make me nervous to climb with you - only a bad carpenter blames his tools. The second one can then come down using a normal rappel on the ATC until he reaches the anchor. Solo climbing with a gri gri without back up knots is CRAZY, they don't always lock and then handle can get stuck. On bolts I generally belay the follower and the leader with a munter of the anchor. Good question. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. lhphb bqxh uhkf zftb mmzkw tdswmuwq gyqg mnbeew gcgza jsjzgx