Best quad anchor climbing reddit This is the best way to clean sport anchors since you never come off belay. Build the rest of the belay Flake rope properly over your safety line as you belay, small loops to big in this situation. " I have a 6mm cordalette that I leave tied as a quad anchor. When you are building a top rope anchor with a quad or anything else, something has to connect the quad to the different anchor points and is probably also necessary to extend the anchor over a ledge — was asking whether girth hitching each of the two anchor points was better/worse then looping them each with a sling and tie-omg off. This involves ~20ft of accessory cord and 4 carabiners. The big benefits of cordalette are that you can chop it up for v-threads, to leave behind on abseils and if you have a sufficient length make a sling longer than a 240cm (need > 5. Best answer. Tbh, I'm not sure that they aren't safe. If I don't have to extend the anchor, I can set up the anchor and drop a rope in about 2 minutes. trying to equalize the pieces of the anchor HELPs reduce shock loading only a single leg of the anchor and does help equalize the load (things stretch). Using the quad as a cookie-cutter solution to anchoring is a classic example of failing to understand the relative sources of risk in climbing. If I am setting up a top rope anchor, in this case a quad, do I need locking biners or am I able to safely use non-locking biners? I usually use 2-3 alternating gates when setting up my quad and don't see a way that the rope could come out of any of the biners. Except the one on the left should move those knots closer to the master point otherwise they will become shook. For a TR anchor it doesn't matter. Unjerk: Just preference & whatever scenario is best for your gear and location. This does not apply in a fixed point anchor because the anchor functions completely differently. I'm a fan of a pre-tied quad anchor. If I'm setting up a top rope on top of a sport route, it's a pretty good solution. The masterpoints of a Quad also move, so they are less flexible when trying to avoid obstacles. Not everybody needs a guide to set up a top rope dude lol Finally, this doesn't really apply if you're climbing lead, but if you're setting up a top rope in a hike-to-the-top kind of crag that has bolts, nothing is faster than a quad. If you tie clove hitches at each anchor point, you minimize the inward pulling of the center strand and thus no longer have an American Death Triangle. To some degree all of these internet anchor questions are like rearranging deck chairs on the titanic. For bringing up a second, breaking up the anchor like on the left gives you more "wiggle room" to fit extra shit onto the anchor if you decide to use a quad. Jun 22, 2021 · There are plenty of other reasons to use a quad on a bolted anchor, like simplicity and convenience, and lots of people use them in this context for this reason. Master points and quad anchors do a much better job as spreading the load and are more secure due to the lockers. These are the products I think seem to be the best options on the market right now. I don't want a knot that reduces the strength of the rope catching a shock load if a bolt fails. there is a reason the quad is one of the most popular/bomber anchors people use. In hindsight I would make a quad out of 8mmx20ft for a little more play in that system. I love quad anchors. Quads without knots violates the "redundancy" priciniple of SERENE anchors. After that, you can better evaluate a good mentor and a good mentor will be more likely to take you in. Remember that when you add knots (2 over hands doubled up and a bend for a Quad) you use up some of your rope length. And I didn't know a lot. Not going to use two quick draws for a trad anchor. perfect equalization is. See full list on climbing. Digit V-Mobs. Then down climb back to anchor, tie in, and commence setting up to belay the second. com The Quad is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. One more thing to note: belaying direct off of the anchor (i. Two draws is fine. Here’s a really good video on top rope anchors. If you're looking for a do it all, super safe sport/top rope anchor, then go for the quad anchor. I usually go with a pre-tied quad on 7mm cord for belay stations with two bomber bolts. The anchors I have seen people built with quickdraws were built with draws with short dogbones (ie what they had). You might find yourself in a life-and-death situation where you have to bail off a rock with a sling thrown over-top. Why not just use 2 quickdraws. From what I can tell, having a CE-XXXX/CN-YYYYY certification seems to be as good as a UIAA one. belaying with an ATC clipped to your harness, rope going to the master point, back down to climber), then the anchor will get You are totally correct I usually keep it in a tied loop already build as a quad anchor to save time. e. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. Welcome to /r/slackline! Post pictures, stories, new locations, beginner guides… 1. A master 8 is fine. Flip the rope onto their safety. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. . There's a reason guides almost always use quads with bolted anchors: they're incredibly bomber at good bolted anchors and will handle the failure of one of the bolts reasonably well. Edit: To add, for sport / top rope purposes, I would actually recommend a quad anchor tied from a cordalette over this anchor you've made. That way, if I’m hitting the crag and burning top rope laps or climbing with someone that does lead, I can simply put it on my rack and clip it to the anchor bolts. How To Build A Quad Anchor: 3 - His anchor is a quad: Climbing Tools: One Handed Clove Hitch and Munter: 1 - The best one handed clove hitch: I'm a bot working hard to help Redditors find related videos to watch. 1. " rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. But sometimes I found some oldish bolt and the eyelet was really small and I couldn't fit a carabiner safely in there so I had to untie my cordalette and pass it thru the bolts. Boom. You can use opposing quick draws or sliding-x with a locker at the mastermind if it's a quick follow on single pitch. In contrast, anchors made with slings and cordettes seem to dangle further from the bolts and have more downward force. What you are describing is best practice for the legs of a pre equalized anchor. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. I bought 8mmx30ft and cut that in half for a quad/misc anchor. 24 votes, 10 comments. Tension The Block 2. If the bolts are far apart this may not work. Agreed. ), the anchor will get 1x the force of the falling climber. A quad is fine. If necessary keep all pieces of gear in the anchor for the belay. You're taking big falls on the intermediate draws, and not usually the anchor, even when top roping, so worry at least as much about the rest of your gear, right? A clove hitch will reduce forces when you have a more complex anchor. Lattice Mini Bar. 5m for this). ATC in guide mode, Grigri clipped directly to the anchor, etc. They only come into play when the primary anchors are sh#t, and you need to spread the load or risk anchor failure fi the leader pings straight onto the anchor. For self rescue, you don't always have to tie fancy knots. Although I've practiced a few times, I've never had to do it in anger. Make sure the second knows how to safely clean your anchor and transition to the permanent anchor BEFORE they leave the ground. Having said all that, the anchor is the one place you've got full redundancy, so only worrying about wear on the anchor draws seems kinda silly. If a newer sport climber learns only one anchor I'd much rather it be the quad than a more complicated anchor that requires good judgment to safely execute. A sliding x without limiter knots is probably fine. what is the best method to secure the ropes when we pull them through the anchor above? This is the sort of thing that seems like it ought to be a concern but really isn't. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. I use a Mountain Tools Webolette to tie the rock protection or bolts together. It has just never come up for me in over 40 years of climbing. Learn how to use the self-equalizing 'quad anchor' for climbing Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. Two extendable draws are my preferred setup (in case the anchor bolts are set wide or are placed vertically or offset). These anchors looked like there was as much side ways force as downward force on the bolts. I think it's important to keep in mind it's best to have a comfortable working level with several anchor methods. single HMS on the master point to attach yourself to (clove hitch from your rope attached to your harness) and either belay off your rope loop Hey lots of the comments are harsh. A buddy of mine was climbing in Yosemite somewhat recently and said Alex Honnold and (i think) Jimmy Chin rapped down past them. You should be feeding the rope through the next ring whilst pulling down, so by the time the upper rope end comes free you already have the entire other rope through the As for the anchor you will need something to use as an anchor. They make things super easy. Banshee is great for bringing up second when there's only two bolts at top but for TR I'd use only quad. Use the terrain to your advantage whenever possible. Take the American Death Triangle, for example. if you are climbing a trad route then the norm (at least in the UK) is: a single screw-gate on each piece of gear, equalised either with a long sling passed through each piece and knotted (overhand) to form a master point. I also have 6mmx50ft that I cut into 10ftx3 and 20ftx1. I find a 240 makes a nice tidy quad when using two piece anchors and is long enough for most applications using 3+ pieces. I prefer keeping the double fisherman's outside of the middle. Quad Anchors: Slings vs Cords I use a long ass sling and keep it racked as a quad on my harness (my home crag offers a lot of options from multi pitch to TR in a given day), but does anyone like 7mm better as far a keeping a dedicated quad racked? Each racked on 1 single small non-locker, when used as an anchor on gear/bolts/pitons one end will be clove hitched on the most reliable bit of pro and things will balance out If the route's more climbing then alpine, then a Petzl Connect Adjust (otherwise, I'll use one of the slings as a rap extender), since it makes A0 much more enjoyable. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. Now, there are certain scenarios where one may want 1 or more lockers in the top rope anchor, for example of there is a reasonable chance that the biner(s) may get pushed up against the rock, but such scenarios aren't that common in most climbing areas. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. depends what you are doing. Instant top rope anchor. This is a totally reasonable use, but it's best if people understand that the "equalization" isn't really beneficial and carries pros and cons. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. A little back story, I've been wanting to go outside and I've finally made some friends who want to go outside for the first time as well. My question is: is it bad to leave it essentially permanently assembled in this Jan 13, 2022 · 1) To construct a girth-hitch masterpoint, clip or thread cord or a sling through each anchor component and pull down on the rigging material to tension it, as you would when rigging a cordelette anchor. if it is, you did something else very wrong. I'll keep this updated as long as I can. The home of Climbing on reddit. Your second comes up, have them clip into a piece or two. So while risk is minimal for just using two draws (my typical go to for lead), it is better practice to use something else like a master point or quad anchor to set up your anchor. It could be better. It's still tested by an independent third party and has to conform to the EU standards, which I think is basically the same as UIAA. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. i’m relatively new to outdoor climbing & am wanting to build a quad anchor of my own pretty much just to set up top rope with, and a quad anchor because it’s what i’ve used so far climbing with others so i just understand how to make it the most. Reddit attracts a lot of know it alls. By tying load limiter knots into the quad, at least 2 parts of the sling would need to simultaneously fail for the anchor to fail. Using the rope for the anchor is great for swinging leads, but for block leading, I prefer some other type of anchor. The only time it doesn’t work is if there isn’t enough space to feed a bight of rope through the hardware. It’s a good enough anchor. Oct 13, 2021 · Quads often work on multiple anchors without having to be re-tied, making them ideal for rappel anchors and multi-pitch sport. Learn all about it here. (Photo: Derek DeBruin) Oct 29, 2023 · ok, i know this topic has been done to death but i just need simple answers. Break down the anchor, your top piece becomes 1st piece of pro. If you're just going up and down you can often use two quickdraws. It's perfectly fine to have a top rope anchor with no lockers at all. ) and start practicing top belay on single pitch sport routes (you lead, build anchor, bring up follower, and then both rap off). Lattice Quad Block. Agreed, in my opinion the best approach is to learn a little from a book (like the climbing anchors classic) and then go with a guide to help cement the practical knowledge. The difference in set up time between a quad and 2quickdraws is negligible, and the quad is a better TR anchor. There are best-practices in anchor-building in those desperate situations as well. I only set quickdraws on the anchor if I'm going to lower and someone else is going to lead. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Jerk: anchors are aid equalization is not a myth. After you've created your anchor, clip the rope to it, climb above your anchor and get in a solid full strength piece in good solid rock and clip your rope to it. If you do a redirected belay (i. A fixed point anchor relies on the pure strength of a single point with redundancy in the backup being (hopefully) placed in the direction of pull so that in case of If you're gonna be climbing the route for a while on TR then use a quad. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Sorry if my wording was confusin. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the I (and my partners) know how to switch over from a climbing rope anchor to a cord/sling anchor. I have quad and banshee rig made of 7mm/11kN cord. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Just make sure you’re checking the anchor every time you come up to it, or at regular intervals. Anyone with some reasonable climbing experience is immediately aware of how overkill the quad-anchor fervor is - especially for top-rope applications. Digit Mini Yubi. If you built a quad anchor without knots, and any part of the single was cut, the entire anchor would fail. This happens so infrequently on the routes most people climb that a cordellette will usualy suffice. BFC Grippul 2. When people get into internet arguments about anchors there are two conflicting goals what is the "best" and what "works. In an institutional guiding setting you are required to set your anchors with lockers. Stopper knots were tied and the anchor is well established with people climbing on it every weekend, which I attached a redundant quad anchor to. A nearby party was using a quad anchor and apparently, when Honnold saw the anchor, he pointed at it and said "that's a fucking circus. Red is good for speed climbing as it’s much faster. Swapping leads means I'm climbing with one of my buddies I'm dialed with and know they understand assessing anchors but when climbing where I'm leading others the shelf is usually just my personal anchor point to allow my second to have all the master point they need without worrying about creating a cluster before I'm off again. I hear a lot of people use quads for single pitch sport, and I do think it is a bit overkill. I want to… 1. YY Vertical Before Climbing Anchors was released I had picked up used copies of older two part series (1990's climbing anchors + more climbing anchors), as I was getting more serious about climbing and trying to get a better handle on knowing what I didn't know. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 23 comments Quad is really useful solution for do-it-all anchor when weight or bulk isn't huge issue. I've favoured 1-hand vs 2-hand portable hangboards, and leant towards designs that I think will be the most stable in terms of tilt when lifting. Otherwise I would pick up a belay device with an autolocking guide mode (atc guide, reverso, pivot, megajul, etc. Best is to have 100% full time monitoring but that’s not possible. 19K subscribers in the Slackline community. And yes we are scared of falling. There is a way to set you anchor after a lead as a quad anchor and then use the quad as a tether when you clean, but this can sometimes lead to difficult positions compared to a traditional Personal anchor system. The legs of a sling clipped to anchor points above, with the masterpoint locking carabiner. The length of a Quad is not easy to adjust. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. For EVERY route you climb, consider the climbing/fall zone below the anchor, and adjust the limiting knots closer to the center point to cover only that much movement and reduce extension. eka ahygoc zmuos onzxi isqhn hzonoshk xirbbq epwu dnygjq kqwgk