Ape index of famous climbers. It's about your strength and technique.
Ape index of famous climbers. com is a free website with an online ape index calculator.
Ape index of famous climbers Welcome to the ape index . At approximately 6 feet 1 inch (185 cm), his stature allows him a significant reach advantage, crucial for conquering complex routes that require extensive In rock climbing it is believed that a positive Ape Index, (a value greater than 1), where the arm span is greater than the height, provides for a competitive advantage, and some climbers have expressed the belief that exercise can result in an improved ratio. In that case, the body has a perfect ape index ratio which is 1. Tommy Caldwell lost much of his left index finger in a table saw accident in 2001. 4in (+1 cm) NATIONALITY Czech Adam Ondra Height Adam Ondra stands tall with a height that perfectly complements his climbing style. Use your ape index as a tool to figure out which beta to use from fellow climbers and as a fun comparison among friends. Come for fun, or come to train on your own or in a skills-based class, either way you won’t be disappointed. Climbing. On the other hand, a positive ape index (above 1) means that your wingspan is greater than your height. Ape index 1 = 1. Wingspan or arm span is the measurement between the tips of the fingers when arms are spread straight wide. 15b) sent on Aug 29th, 2010. In climbing, the ape Index is crucial for understanding a climber's reach, ability to span gaps between holds Mar 12, 2023 · The ape index is at play in some sports. com is a free website with an online ape index calculator. Totally agree!! My climbing partner is my husband, and he is 6’3” and not a wire-y build. You could be the tallest climber in the gym, but without strength and technique, you will really struggle. Jul 25, 2024 · Famous Rock Climbers. There are climbers with negative ape like Ondra and some with +10 cm like Jan Hojer. 73 seconds, which he secured in March 2021 at the Climbing Japan Cup speed competition. The man has an impressive ape index, but I swear his center of gravity is at his sternum. Take note how Adam Ondra’s ape index is quite small (1. Megos uses his height and build to excel in both technical precision and dynamic power, highlighting th I think the most ideal body for comp climbing is being relatively short ~5’8 but with a massive wingspan like Tomoa. 14d) when the highest achieved female sport climbing grade was just two notches higher at 9b (5. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Famous climbers’ ape indices: Adam Ondra ape index: +0,4″ /+1cm alex Honnold ape index: +8cm Daniel woods ape index +4″ Nalle Hukkataival ape index: +0,5″ Sasha DiGiulian ape index: +2″ Shauna Coxey ape index: +8,5cm. 13b) sport climbing route Øgletryne at the Sageveggen rock wall, near Bergen. If you don’t know your ape index yet, there are several methods, some more complex than others. Janja Garnbret (born 12 March 1999) is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing. 14c (8c+) in the Virgin River Gorge, [12] the hardest sport climb in North America at the time. Is Tommy Caldwell still alive? Yes, Tommy Caldwell is alive and active as of 2025. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5. APE index doesn't correlate well at all with climbing performance and it doesn't predict climbing performance in novice climbers. The ape index is relevant in rock climbing. The average climbing community probably averages much more on the plus side. He does train and he doesn’t often give Oct 10, 2022 · 1:41:59 – Lynn’s height and ape index (5’1 1/4”, 0 ape index) 1:43:29 – Advice for shorter climbers. Introduction . It’s quite natural that climbers with higher ape indexes reach holds that are further away and thus have a brighter climbing ability. Apr 27, 2025 · This will help you find your ideal style and show you where you thrive while climbing. This measurement, called the ape index, is widely used in sports science, especially in activities like rock climbing, swimming, and martial arts, where having a longer reach can offer a performance advantage. They do need extra inch on arms to secure a podium. He ultimately chose to have it amputated after doctors said it would hinder his climbing more than help. Feb 16, 2025 · Ape Index is slang that is used to describe the ratio of the wingspan and height. Ape index basketball and Swimming Jul 14, 2023 · She has a +0 ape index and stands 5 feet 2 inches tall, yet she is one of the most accomplished climbers of any generation. The analysis shows the most important factor in getting better at outdoor rock climbing is going climbing outside (crazy!), followed by several varieties of finger strength and upper-body strength. The perfect Mar 1, 2011 · Keywords: anthropometry, chinese, climbing, ape index, somatotyping, competition climbing . 4 inches) while Daniel Woods’ ape index is quite large (1. [ 1 ] 99Boulders. Indeed, Matt Samet, redaktor Climbing Magazine, pisze w swojej książce The Climbing Dictionary: „Dodatni indeks małpy, w którym twoja rozpiętość skrzydeł przekracza twój wzrost, jest bonusem. Calculate your ape index with our easy-to-use Ape Index Calculator. Just find a 8a wich doesn't require huge moves, there are plenty of those. com/watch?v=t7Fewv2pEdk&t=132sTop Climbing Moments of 2022: https://www. [4] While single pitch sport climbing never became a core focus for Zangerl, by 2018 she was climbing at the grade of 9a (5. The ape index holds significance in various fields and activities where body proportions can impact performance or have specific applications. As per the ape index, the arm span should be equal to the height of the body. Increase your REACH as a short Climber: https://www. After retiring from bouldering and taking time off in 2009 to allow her back to recover, Zangerl began to focus on easier sport climbing routes. Jun 4, 2024 · So you can be a short person with a positive ape index, like Sasha Di Giulian, who’s 157. Apr 16, 2025 · Generally, an average person’s wingspan is about the same as their height, which means they have an ape index ratio of 1, signifying a neutral ape index. Let us define the very best by the guys who have done both a 9b and an 8C since 2015 and add to that the Top-3 route climbers and boulderers as well as the Top-3 competition climbers in Lead and Boulder. The Sloth Index. Honnold's ventur HEIGHT 6′ 1″ AGE 31 APE INDEX +. It's about your strength and technique. Not much differences however. Long arms for your height are an advantage in rock climbing, swimming, boxing, and basketball; hence the ape index is measured. Login Premium Home Explore Ascents Ranking Gallery Beta Videos Vertical-Life Premium News "The very best climbers are taller". 01 or +0. Check out the Merrin family blogsite for more. It was originally graded a 9b but has since been downgraded to 9a+\\b. Here is a list of the best climbers. What is the Ape Index? The ape index, sometimes referred to as the "gorilla index," is a numerical representation of how an individual's arm span compares to their height. Note: Als je de ape index kent van een beroemde klimmer die hier niet vermeld staat, zet het dan in de commentaren hieronder samen met de bron en we zullen het toevoegen aan de lijst! Mar 30, 2021 · Powszechnie uważa się, że dodatni ape index (lub współczynnik ape index większy niż 1) jest dobry dla wspinaczki skalnej. Adam Ondra March 27, 2024. 1:53:14 – Lynn’s family upbringing, her temperament, and what sets her apart Shauna Coxsey MBE (born 27 January 1993) is an English professional rock climber. 8 ape index (or, an ape index ratio of 0. You can use this chart to compare your own ape index to some of the greatest climbers in the world. where does rick martinez get his shirts arm span to height ratio calculator William (Will) Bosi (born 27 December 1998) is a Scottish professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Nov 2, 2023 · Ape index doesn't matter. May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements; Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. 57cm) Nationality British Will Bosi: Early Life, Age, and Rise to Elite Climbing Will Bosi, born in Apr 25, 2024 · For climbers, a more useful way to express the ape index is to subtract height from arm span, giving a value that is either positive, neutral or negative. [10] [11] [12] At age 14, he won the adult 1996 US Open Bouldering Nationals, [1] and a year later aged 15, he freed Boone Speed's project Necessary Evil 5. From the outset, Sharma was considered a prodigy in the climbing world. Discover your reach-to-height ratio and improve your climbing performance. The negative ape index (below 1) means that your wingspan is lower than your height. Adam Ondra Speed Climbing. The difference between bouldering and lead climbing has been shrinking during the last decade, especially since 2019. Unfortunately, as far as I know, the IFSC doesn't keep wingspan data of all the climbers and I haven't looked to see if it's available elsewhere yet. In 2006, he was an unknown climber, but by 2007, Honnold became widely recognized after he free-soloed Astroman and the Rostrum in Yosemite National Park in a single day. com In rock climbing it is believed that an ape index greater than one, where the arm span is greater than the height, provides for a competitive advantage, and some climbers have expressed the belief that exercise can result in an improved ratio, although this view is somewhat controversial. Feb 1, 2023 · In addition to IFSC Climbing World Cup events, he also competed in the 2020 Tokyo Olympics (held in 2022) as one of 40 climbers selected for the world’s first sport climbing Olympic event. com/watch?v=NWadW Mar 30, 2021 · Het nadeel van deze methode is dat, tenzij het 0 is, je ape index verandert naargelang je inches of centimeters gebruikt. For a climber so dedicated to the movement of climbing, climbing the same route over and over doesn’t appeal. Mar 12, 2024 · Famous Rock Climbers. Alex Honnold Apr 10, 2022 · The climbing world knows Alex Honnold for his big wall free soloing. 2in (+3 cm) NATIONALITY Norwegian How Good Is Magnus Midtbø? Magnus Midtbø's hardest redpoint was Ali Hulk (sit start extension) 9a+\\b (5. Sport climbing participation ha s grown signifi-cantly since the 1980 Pioneer of "Free BASE" Climbing: Combined free solo climbing with BASE jumping, climbing with a parachute as backup in case of a fall. [6] The Ape Index Calculator is a handy online tool designed to help you measure the difference between your arm span and your height. 06 Ape Index 2 - 4 inches Only a tiny minority of professional climbers have an ape index higher than 1. 57cm) Nationality British Will Bosi: Early Life, Age, and Rise Nov 28, 2023 · Ape Index, Wingspan, and Height of Famous Climbers; Climber Daniel Woods, a professional climber has a 1. Since most consider attractive people more friendly and self-confident by default, this belief creates a perfect circle as they receive more validation and encouragement than unattractive peers. 03, because even that is a genetic rarity. Search for crags, routes, and climbers. So, having a higher ape index means that you have a longer reach than the average person of your height, which could give you an advantage. Alex Honnold has secured his place in the history of rock climbing with his remarkable achievements in free solo climbing. Try our free online calculator now! Aug 10, 2024 · Gold Medal, Sport Climbing, Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games (2021) First female onsight of 5. 5 Advanced Climbing Techniques HEIGHT 5′ 8″ AGE 30 APE INDEX +0 in (+0 cm) NATIONALITY German How Tall Is Alex Megos? Alex Megos stands at 5′ 8″ (173cm). Some notable areas where the ape index is important include: Rock Climbing and Bouldering. Not overweight at all, but his body simply is not slender, even when he was seriously into cycling before he started climbing. The best male climbers are on average 4 cm shorter than their non-climbing peers and female climbers around 1 cm shorter. Hypothesis: I think that on average people with a higher ape index will be better at climbing than people with a lower ape Nov 2, 2023 · Ape index doesn't matter. This measurement is similar to the ape index, but excludes the torso. Jul 9, 2021 · The Average Ape Index Compared to Famous Climbers Average Ape Index. However, in certain sports, a longer wingspan relative to height is considered an advantage. Several guys in the forum have said this is not true. There’s also a slight bias between the sexes. 5 cm tall and has an impressive +5 cm ape index. HEIGHT 6′ 1″ AGE 31 APE INDEX +. [3] He devised the "Tomoa skip", a speed climbing technique to bypass one of the lower holds on the speed climbing wall. 4in (+1 cm) NATIONALITY Czech Adam Ondra Height Adam Ondra stands tall with a I've got a -4cm ape index, climbing with friends with positive ones, the main difference is that while bouldering, we're forced to use different betas. Ape Indices of Famous Climbers. I think mine is probably minus 17. Speed Climbing isn’t Ondra’s thing. Of course, being tall is an advantage and some moves will feel easier but that doesn’t mean someone short can’t do the same climb. [4] Nov 2, 2023 · The more you perfect your climbing craft, the more advanced climbing opens up to you. I have seen a couple articles before that listed the ape index of professional climbers, but they're all pretty small sample sizes so I'm hesitant to make any conclusions. Perfect for athletes, climbers, and fitness enthusiasts looking to optimize their training. These sports include rock climbing, swimming, boxing, and basketball. … The ape index, which is a ratio of your wingspan vs your height, is an interesting part of climbing because if you compare the average person to the top 1% of climbers, you will notice the top… When you already know how to measure your ape ratio, you need to know that most of society has a neutral ape index, which means it equals around 1. 1 See full list on climbinghouse. I did mine last june ;) Enjoy your climbing and don't bother with things you can't control ! Apr 28, 2025 · Famous Climbers View all 176 cm) Age 26 Ape Index +1. In this daring form of climbing, adventurers scale massive rock faces with no ropes or safety equipment, relying entirely on their physical prowess, precision, and mental strength. He earned his slot after his second-place finish in the 2019 IFSC Lead Climbing World Championships. [6] Jul 9, 2021 · Because he prefers climbing outside he doesn’t attend as many of the events as others but still has 14 medals overall. In both, men's and women's categories, the best boulderers are taller than the best lead climbers. Your ape index is a fun statistic for conversation and the gym or crag. After just one year of climbing, he won the Norwegian Youth Championship, and a year later, in 2002, he on-sighted his first 8a (5. 07 ape index or a +10cm reach compared to his height. In climbing, any height can be advantageous, as different physiques offer unique strengths. Midtbø started climbing in 2000 at 12 years of age after his mother enrolled him in a class. Or look at Alexander Megos—the first climber to on-sight 9a on sport and another world-renowned climber with a +0 ape index. On average, men have slightly longer arms relative Oct 8, 2021 · Lynn Hill, the first person to free The Nose on El Cap and one of the most famous climbers of all time, has an ape index of 0 (or, an ape index ratio of 1) Babsi Zangerl, one of the best trad climbers in the world , has a -0. It shows two methods to calculate the ape index and lists the ape indices of famous climbers. Adam Ondra (Czech pronunciation: [ˈadam ˈondra]; born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. Many professional climbers measure their indices ratio above 1. 8in (+4. Narasaki formerly held the Japanese record for competition speed climbing with a time of 5. youtube. That guy has a freaking +4 ape index or something like that. However, since I’m not a comp climber, short arms are not gonna affect me as much. 1:45:53 – First Ascent (Naked Edge film by Bob Carmichael), and the training Lynn was doing in the early 80s. Height 5’9” (175–176 cm) Age 26 Ape Index +1. She has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events, two Olympic gold medals, and is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. A positive index is seen as advantageous for climbers. Click the below picture to see some of the names. I hope you find what you search for but it really won't tell you anything about climbing. In short, you get to climb more, cooler climbs! So, in light of improving your climbing, here are five advanced climbing techniques that will take you from the intermediate, average-joe zone to an absolute crusher on the wall. HEIGHT 5′ 8″ AGE 35 APE INDEX +1. 99) Dec 14, 2021 · A good ape index is a neutral or positive ape index. His on-sight record stands at an impressive 8c+ Find the Climbing House style guide with brand assets such as logos, colors, fonts, and more. Wingsuit Flight Record (2009) : Set a world record for the longest wingsuit flight time (2 minutes 50 seconds) off the Eiger in Switzerland. Gold medal at Paris 2024 Olympics; This article is part of Climbing’s ongoing Who’s Who biographical study of climbing’s all-time greats, achievers, and, in the case of Aleister Crowley, most notorious. 15b). The average human ape index is probably 0 using the subtraction method or 1 using the ratio method. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. It starts with the calculator itself and then explains the ape index. I consider that dividing your wingspan by your height is the best methold. Will Bosi May 6, 2025. 5 percent stronger. He continues climbing, writing, and speaking around the world. Vitruvius, as depicted by Leonardo da Vinci in his famous “Vitruvian Man”. Ape Indexes of Famous Climbers. 14b with Fish Eye in Oliana, Spain (2021). 15b) graded sport climbing route (King Capella in 2021), and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to have completed a V17 (9A) boulder Why climb at Ape Index? We’ve created an environment where people can experience climbing on many levels; from the inexperienced one-time climber to the competing athlete. How to calculate ape index. Dec 27, 2007 · Being that he is located in Boulder, many a strong climber has made their way through his house and left their ape index measurements on his wall. Mar 14, 2023 · Tl;dr: This analysis shows that weight, gender, height, and ape index do not play a significant role in a person’s maximum sport climbing grade or bouldering grade. dunbksnvluducrgmwktocgubtilpastmlhnzhxadvxgkrejbmypuoo