Top rope solo devices However, there are some that still will work well for soloing. 9. The kong duck actually lists self belay as a use and the 802 says it can stop a fall factor 2. As a backup to the belay loop that the oval was connected to, I had a quick draw connected from a leg loop to the oval biner (big mistake). May 13, 2022 · You can either hang a bag with some items from the end of the rope, or bundle the excess rope together. What is rope soloing? Free soloing is the truest expression of a climber’s freedom, cruising up the rock, alone and unnumbered by safety gadgets. Dropping a device when changing the system from ascent to descent. Dec 1, 2013 · was doing top rope laps on a short climb using my Mini Traxion. I simply tie alpine butterfly loops in my rope every 6' or so from the anchor to the ground. Dual rope strands: Many gear manufacturers, including Petzl, reccomend 2 strands of rope. A. The best and simplist method for top rope self belay BY FAR is to tie in on one end of the top rope and thread the other end through a grigri. Device failure: improper attachment, disabling of the cam, or a side plate opening during use (rubbing, interference from foreign objects). Petzl does not reccomend using their devices for top rope solo but still recognizes people do it anyway and has good information on the safest methods. The device is INCREDIBLE for TRS!!! As for LRS, it is slightly better than the Soloist because the rappel with the LOV goes much better and the system for TRS is incredible too! I attach the LOV3 using the Petzl Swivel Open. If I can tie off the rope at the top anchor I've also used a gri gri for a single rope. 0, El Mudo 3. Top Rope Solo Pack List. Check out the Petzl ASAP, a well-regarded fall arrest device: Jan 20, 2014 · The top device is your primary self-belay. My questions are what do you guys think?? Specifically I am very interested to see a pull test with the spoc on a rope to see if it lines up with the micro trax's failure mode of tearing the sheath at around 4kn. Double- and triple-check your set-up, both on the ground and while you climb. If there is extra tail left past where the rope is fixed at the top anchor, it is a good idea to add a blocker knot to the end! Feb 27, 2023 · Use a locking draw to extend the upper or lower device if you want, the options are limitless, but an extremely simple two device setup that only adds maybe 30 seconds of faff per lap is extremely simple to implement and ought to be considered the standard of top rope soloing. Rope loss: do not detach yourself completely from the rope while performing maneuvers, a slight overhang can pendulum the rope out of reach. weighmyrack. A supposed run of a set amount, like several hundred, is rumored to be in the works, if the demand is high enough. Feb 3, 2022 · 1 progress capture device; 1-foot loop for jugging; Top-Rope Soloing. These skills are outside the scope of this article. I have a short piece of Dynamic climbing rope tied to my harness with locking carabiners at both ends. Hmm. The solo version of this sees the climber’s connection to a fixed rope moving along with the climber. Jun 18, 2020 · Gstring Climbing Grips Grigri lead rope solo Grigri hack Gstring Classics Gstring PROs RipCord RollBar adjusting difficulty hangboard lead rope-solo strength training 3D-Sling Chalkbag Chris Webb Parsons Gallows Gstring PRO Hanchor Lead Rope Solo Mt. Jun 23, 2020 · Sam Skovgaard wrote: Toothed devices do not chew up your rope. EN 15151-1 type 6 8. The Kong duck and 802 seem better. Make sure your rope is protected over sharp edges. Rappel to the bottom of the route and set up my top rope solo with two progress capture devices on one line, and backing up with alpine butterflies in the second line. Some people recommend having each device on a seperate strand of rope in case of a rope failure. Sep 19, 2022 · That’s perfect for conventional belay devices; not so great for top rope solo device. The Petzl GriGri+, in top rope mode, is our preferred device. ” ~ Carl Tomblin. 9 ≤ Ø ≤ 10. 1). The Rescucender is a perfectly fine device for rope solo. I actually prefer rope soloing to climbing with a partner in places like Ouray Ice Park - I get a lot more climbing done and do not get cold standing around. Feb 21, 2017 · Finding one of these has become very hard in the last year. I did quite some top rope solo before but after this course i am changing my devices and the whole setup. Everest Pocket Rocks Top Rope Solo Trango Vergo adjusting adjusting difficulty. Only the basic technique is described here. Apr 23, 2023 · In reply to. See full list on blog. Connect directly to the bolt rings 1 foot below the top of the face, using slings and lockers. Further Resources from Petzl Falls closer to anchor with any slack in the system will be more jarring etc than any top rope or lead fall. fmck:. I look forward to community feedback. I often opt to top rope solo both when working out moves on a project but more commonly on easier routes for some climbing milage. P. Russian Ushba (I believe not available anymore), Petzl shunt, and 2 different ascenders. If you want to use the rope for rappelling or pulling it up later, you can hang the bag or backpack with the weight using a Fifi hook on the rope. Subjects include: general principles, devices-specific recommendations, suggested knots, belay anchors, self rescue and more! It includes the Vergo, NEOX, Pinch, Silent Partner, Soloist, El Mudo 2. I’m impressed by the safety features, both the 35-lb break limit and the rigid rubber covering on the pass through loop to prevent the cord from jamming the device. The process is simple; as you climb the rope feeds out from your bag (your spare rope), through your self-feeding solo device, and creates 'climbing rope' for you to progress upwards. Jun 10, 2024 · The pass-through loop specifically couldn’t be easier to use with any device of your preference, and really speeds up transitions during a top rope solo mileage outing. She fortunately escaped with relatively minor injuries. 8, A3, V) 2013, Jan 20, 2017 · I'm looking for the best gear to solo top rope. Oct 15, 2021 · Normal top roping involves a climber ascending while secured with a tie-in knot (the climber’s connection to the rope) to one end of the rope while a belayer and a belay device manage the rope’s slack. TRS (Top Rope Solo) and EN 567 6 ≤ Ø ≤ 11 mm ≥ 12 kN – dynamic rope EN 892 – accessory cord EN 564 or semi-static rope EN 1891, with energy absorber EN 355 Nov 26, 2022 · The Missing Link is the best top rope soloing arrangement I have ever used. I am also looking for a device for top rope solo and of the many methods what device is seen as the most effective and versatile. May 21, 2024 · This comprehensive review compares 13 of today's top options, offering you expert advice on which one is best for different situations. e. However, since it is not being made anymore I am looking at the C. I've got a shunt. Grigri with microtrax, grigri alone, grigri with jumar, jumar with microtrax etc etc. Mar 6, 2019 · My intended use of the device is the same as what I use a Trax for - top rope solo. Unless the top device detached from the line or harness (unlikely), you will not end up suspended from the lower device, but still suspended from the upper device, which will have crashed into the top of the lower device. Discontinued. This is one reason conventional fall-arrest devices haven’t become hugely popular for top rope soloing. com May 14, 2022 · Most so-called “top rope self-belay devices” are actually designed as one of the following: Rope grabs and rope clamps (e. 0, which seems like it is hard to get ahold of currently. In this video, I discuss the basics of top rope solo, one of the safest and easiest forms of rope solo climbing. Goblin since it uses the same system as the USHBA and is being currently made. Adaptable and Shareable: The adjustable neck the Top Rope Online Course really gave me systematic insights in what is good and what is less good, and it also shows lots of different ways of looking at things. The top rope solo pack lists for a day out alone include the following: 2 progress capturing devices on locking carabiners with anti-cross load As stated above, 2 trax devices of some sort on a single strand. A backup should be used with any TR solo device, including but not limited to the Roll n Lock. Progress capture devices that don't use teeth can still compress the core, causing damage that's much harder to notice than a damaged sheath. Apr 12, 2021 · This video provides instruction in how to rope solo. Aug 21, 2020 · Rope Solo im Toprope. Explorer-Jason:. Please either post here or contact me with any questions. If rope has chance of abrading over edges you can setup intermediate anchor below that feature using a clove hitch to a draw before that feature with rope above loose/will be unweighed untill unclipping the clove. Any significant rope slippage can shock-load the ascender and drop you lower on the route. Aug 25, 2022 · For hauling, I like to use a 6mm static tag line to keep weight low, and foot-haul the pack with this simple system (fig. You can use this technique to lead or top rope belay. Overall the device was in usual shape and condition. Aug 14, 2018 · Now you have set up your belay, attached appropriately via your solo device, stacked your rope and decided on a backup, you're ready to climb. In unserem Beitrag zeigen wir dir vorerst nur die Technik, wie ihr euch beim Toprope-Klettern selbst sichern könnt. In my opinion, there are better devices I used my LOV3 again today for both Lead Rope Solo (LRS) and Top Rope Solo Climbing (TRS). the weight comes from the top device not engaging and pulling down on the bottom device. Entsprechend müsst ihr entweder eine Route wählen, bei der ihr zu Fuss den Stand (Umlenker) erreicht oder in der euch eine Person (Familienmitglied, Drittperson im Klettergarten) beim ersten Go im Vorstieg zum Einrichten einmal sichert. M. Feb 27, 2021 · Dan Bruck wrote: I've tried a bunch of different things. I personally prefer having stretchy cord here. Top-Rope Solo Fall | Device Jammed By Sling Sequoia National Park, Angel Wings Feb 10, 2011 · Bottom line: Don’t rope solo. The uascend is an example of this. There is currently only one device on the market that is marketed as a lead rope solo device, the El Mudo 2. Apr 16, 2020 · The ct rollnlock is a good device as is the grandwall uascend. Versatile belay and braking device with manual-assisted slide locking, ideal for lead and top rope climbing. Climb to the top of the route. I had the Mini Traxion on a Petzl OK oval carabiner. But even the best free solo climber, pushing their limit, may find a section of the climb where success is uncertain - where a fall would mean death. Oct 12, 2020 · We have a new device to test out! Very cool episode this week and a GIVEAWAY! I'd like to thank you all for supporting this channel and I hope this is one wa Nov 19, 2024 · One thing to bear in mind whatever you use is how any backup on the same line might catch you. This accident was featured in the 2024 Accidents in North American Climbing. But these reports basically never happen for people using 2 devices. WARNING! Don’t fo Be sure to add weight to the bottom of the rope (like a water bottle, backpack, or rope coil) so that the devices auto-feed smoothly, and you can flow up the route unencumbered. The micro traxion is also a perfectly fine device for rope solo. The shunt and ascender were never designed for top rope solo or lead rope solo, one of the best bit of kit I've seen on the market so far that works really well for top rope solo is the Taz Love 2 and 3 as they are rated for progress capture Sep 15, 2021 · abandon moderation wrote: Rock Exotica Silent Partner. It is a great pleasure to share our knowledge on Lead Rope Solo with all of you. RollnLock) Progress-capture pulleys (e. There are lots of ways to set this up and all of them are more dangerous than climbing with a buddy. Enhance your top rope solo climbing safety and efficiency with Avant's Universal Top Rope Solo Neck Lanyard. Apr 15, 2024 · The Revo is a relatively well known self-belay device in rope solo circles that is used as a poor man’s Silent Partner - that is, a bi-directional feed device that operates on the basis of centrifugal force/speed lock to stop rope feed. To me it was a good investment. . 11. ) Rope soloing is a technique where you belay yourself instead of being belayed by your partner. Petzl Micro Traxion) Ascenders (e. Check out our universal fitting neck lanyard for top rope soloing - no modifications needed to pair with your TRS devices! In 2018, he launched the Top Rope Solo’s first e-course!!! Here is a bit of Yann’s climbing experience in solo (lead and second) El Capitan – The Shield (5. I have not used silent partner, but top rope often solo and have used different devices, e. Trango Passport) Fall arrest devices (e. The rope was a used 9. Solo Belay Devices “It don’t gotta be fun to be fun. g. Top rope solo systems rely on progress capture rope grabs, which allow rope to pass easily through one direction and stop rope from going the other. Arrows indicate anchors at the top of the pitch; (photo/Christian Black) There are many ways to set up a top-rope solo Ideally, use different devices: There is a risk of 2 identical devices having the same failure mode. 2 mm – dynamic rope EN 892. Feb 19, 2021 · Gstring Climbing Grips Grigri lead rope solo Grigri hack Gstring Classics Gstring PROs RipCord RollBar adjusting difficulty hangboard lead rope-solo strength training 3D-Sling Chalkbag Chris Webb Parsons Gallows Gstring PRO Hanchor Lead Rope Solo Mt. Jun 27, 2012 · Solo Top Rope Self Belay Advice Some progress capture pulleys and ascenders can be rigged to travel along a fixed line providing a self-belay for a solo top rope climbing experience. To keep it in the ideal position for braking (and separate it from the other device), connect the top device to a chest harness, a pair of slings draped over each shoulder so they cross in the middle, or a single sling. ---- Rope removal ---- 10. 9 and it was anchored off at the middle. 0, Revo, Eddy, Grigri 1, Grigri 2, Grigri (2019/3), Grigri Plus, Gob Oct 10, 2020 · In reply to. Goblin) The most popular device for top rope solo is probably the Micro Traxion. Each device will provide a different balance between auto-feeding and grabbiness. I think it was important to get the information out there about the Trango Vergo, Trango Cinch and the Kong Back-Up. I want a main device that is safe, doesn't damage the rope, and can stop frequent TR falls I've looked at petzls pro and sport options- traction, asap, rescucender. I bought some cheap elastic cord and use that to keep the primary device elevated. To haul, put another small ascender/PCD on the rope, clip a sling to it and use it as a foot stirrup. Top device held up by a neck bungee. The attachment points seamed to be in perfect condition and showed no (radiating) stress or cracks. Use rope protectors, directionals, and conscious rope management to protect your cord while you climb. I have had multiple people tell me you want to avoid weighting the micro trax for that reason, and one friend even declined using my rope as a fixed line for taking photos (with a micro) when he realized it was a brand new dry treated rope, because he was going to feel so bad about it. Our team field tested all of these products, climbing big walls in Yosemite and Zion, using them for rescue training on glaciers, and as top-rope solo devices at crags. This is my setup for a Top-Rope Solo. Jun 9, 2015 · 8. It is important that these devices feed smoothly without allowing the accumulation of slack. Jan 12, 2022 · Tie stopper knots in the rope to back up your devices. Saftey considerations: The lever of a gri gri is on the left side of the device therefore the grigri must be on the left side of your tie-in figure 8 knot. (Caldwell drapes a headlamp strap around his neck and clips this to his device. Micro, spok, roll n lock or camp lift. Apr 26, 2016 · Thats why there are a number of reports like this: TR solo with one device, device doesn't catch, person decks. There are a few really good purpose built devices on the market that don't have the flaws and failure modes the old petzl kit has. We prefer to use the grabbiest possible device that we can still coax into auto-feeding because they will engage most reliably in a fall while allowing us to climb relatively unencumbered. Friends and I noticed this right away with the prototypes, and I’ve confirmed this by using the Grigri and the Neox in the same day. The only other thing you can consider is using a dogbone on your primary device so that its extended and a bit further removed from your secondary device. More complicated techniques are needed to solo an overnight alpine route or aid-solo a big wall. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use the standard climbing protection to protect Once to the top anchor: fix the tail of the rope; rap back down to the lower anchor to clean; and then jug ascend or TR solo to follow yourself. Embrace the purity of top rope climbing. Any form of solo climbing is quite advanced a Sep 17, 2012 · The next step in my top rope solo evolution was to use NO device. C. Best, Jonathan. Neither device is recommended by Petzl though for this. It works so well that people ask me what device I’m using when I TRS at busy crags. Is there another device that can be used in place of one or is there a source that someone knows of where I can find one. I guess they couldn't sell enough of them. It doesn't have to be rated for climbing or anything. Step down and the rope should pull through the device at the anchor, then slide the second device up the rope and repeat. After a discussion of the difference between lead rope soloing and top rope soloing Glen discusses the Discover Effortless Top Rope Solo Climbing with Our Universal Neck Lanyard Designed for all climber sizes and device types, this lanyard brings simplicity and safety to your fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipitch outings. Solo Top Roping is a great way to get a lot of laps in and have a positive training day when you can’t find a partner, or are just looking for some solitude. I've always used an elastic necklace clipped to the top device's locker. The rope was a litle roughened up but nothing serious. Jul 29, 2024 · The flip side to a faster-feeding device is that the Neox lets a little more rope through in a fall—not a huge amount, but usually about 6 to 12 inches. Single rope with both devices one single rope - one on belay loop the other on a sling around both shoulders, double rope with a device on each. Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing (or self-belaying) is a form of solo climbing (i. Don't have slack in your system, that can damage the rope with either device. When you reach the top and pull on the rope sharply several times, the weight detaches from the Enhance your top rope solo climbing safety and efficiency with our Universal Top Rope Solo Neck Lanyard—professionally designed for seamless compatibility with all devices and tailored for comfort, it eliminates the DIY hassle, ensuring a perfect fit for every climber on fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipit May 9, 2012 · Most of the rope soloing that I have done is with a mini-trax as the primary device, backed up with a Basic ascender below. It also showed no signs of a cut sheath or flat spots. I've used this system simply because these are the devices that I have, and it works pretty well. I use two strands of rope for redundancy Jul 12, 2023 · The rope was pinched rather hard and the device opened a little whis was no problem. Originally I was looking for an USHBA basic ascender, which seems to be the best "non-teethed" device on the market for use as a top-rope solo device. Feb 13, 2025 · In this month’s Prescription, an expert climber made two crucial errors in her rope ascension/top-rope solo system. Jan 14, 2023 · It's smaller, so a bit lighter and according to petzl works with ropes up to 11mm, but I've seen a few videos which claim it doesn't work very well with 10/11mm ropes especially old furry fat ones, which is probably relevant for top rope solo given it mostly seems to be done using nice reassuring thick ropes. Make sure your devices remain oriented correctly and are not cross-loaded. Some devices must be the top device because weight on the top of the device can defeat the device. axgp loeycgn pfhyk votucrxb jxhk dpaoi qyrtvs uvfp cgumuc fwvgw ivtz iyo gnix dhxb gearnvw