Climbing sling vs runner weight reddit Cheers. Even though it can be produced a variety of ways, a sling (also called a runner) is usually made by stitching a webbing section to a loop. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). The discussion over nylon vs. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner is far and away the most economical choice you can make when it comes to buying a sewn sling. the knot might snag. There is a third type of sling, made of cord similar to a climbing rope. Our Mammut Contact Sling 8. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. i use dyneema for everything. If price is the issue, just buy the cheapest certified harness available, that's like $35. Finally, with everything weight tested and zero chance of you falling (you've already knotted the ends of the rope, of course), you take the locker at the end of the sling and attach it to your belay loop. Climbing slings and carabiners rated for 15-20kN. Thanks to its high-strength band material and contact sewing technique, the handling is super smooth despite the seam area. Weight test both your atc and auto-block, and as you do this the locker at the end of the sling should go slack. You only use tubular webbing for climbing. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. . Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Dyneema slings, on the other hand, have a higher load capacity at exactly the same weight, and a smaller diameter – which makes them ideal for adventurous sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and alpine tours. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). Tubular webbings can be sewn or tied to form a runner or sling. If the 1st blows your gonna take a bit of a fall onto the second. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings , and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. 0 is a super lightweight and compact sling optimized for maximum performance. A few slings are also made of a blend between the two types of fibers. Typically still over 10kn. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. A prusik sling for a chalkbag belt is a good idea, the minitrax is redundant. And keep in mind anyone on the internet with a strong opinion hasn't had enough experience yet. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. There are 2 types of webbings — tubular webbing and flat webbing. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. The girth-hitch masterpoint at an ice-screw belay, using a 120 cm sling. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Runners are most often used in traditional climbing (trad climbing) to lengthen anchors, prevent rope from dragging through rock and to keep gear from becoming . A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. 5kg of force. Same as before More slings Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. On here sits all the extra stuff. Probably only works for them because they don't climb anything under 5. For peace of mind, the added weight and cost of a useful protection system may or may not be worth it to you. A whole new construction technique is used for seamless slings like the Magic Sling 12. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. While many other slings will also work for this purpose, we are convinced that the Open Loop Sling is the ideal choice. In climbing your max sustained load is going to be approximately body weight, or maybe twice that if you have 2 people hanging from an anchor, say 400lb (2kN). So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. 20kg feels impossible to lift even if you're producing 19. 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. but it needs more replacing. The motivation being it's plausible that between a 22kN dyneema sling, and some significantly weaker nylon sling, the dyneema presents a significantly higher risk of harm to the user. May 26, 2020 · I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. I'm on the hype train, and I'm excited to start using overcoming isometrics and left-side/right-side protocols for a lot more training. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. It’s a reasonable solution, adds little weight, provides an imperfect but usable backup should he drop his Guide, and equips him for self-rescue (a Guide, two friction hitches, and a sling make for a rope ascending system in a pinch. The metal s-biners are too heavy for what they do. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. On the back loops I keep 6-8 alpine draws (single length) and then 2-3 double lengths over my shoulder with a biner clipped on them. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. It saves a good amount of weight compared to the bulkier tied slings and they work just as well. Even on my quickdraws and on my cams (DMM Drangons): less weight, lower bulk. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link Slings (also Called runners) Webbing; Cord; All these things are adaptable to several applications and behave as multi-tools on your scaling arsenal. Pick just the extension you need and no more. If weight is the issue, look for specialized alpine harnesses like the one linked before. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. I still bring a few tied slings for leaving on rap anchors, trees, etc so that I don't have to leave one of the $10 suckers. I'm a beginner sport climber though, so weight is not really an issue for me at this stage. It has virtually the exact same shape, feel, weight, and other characteristics as the Sterling Nylon Sewn Runner, except that it inexplicably costs about $1. Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. Jan 13, 2022 · Ice-Screw Belay: A very similar rigging works with ice screws as well, but uses a double-length (120 cm) runner instead. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). As explained @ 1:30-1:35 it's for redundancy. On my harness while climbing most multipitch routes I have a belay/rap device, an extra sling with a locker, and a couple extra biners. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. No real reason, just the nylon slings were really cheap & the weight and bulkiness doesn't bother me (except if you use them with those small ultra-light 'biners but I hate those things Aug 18, 2019 · In general, climbing slings these days are made of two different types of fibers: Dyneema (or another type of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethelene), and Nylon. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. Runner/ Sling. Preventing a fall is priority #1. And if you are dealing with 2 nonlocking QDs when cleaning, clip PAS to 1 bolt. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. Mar 13, 2024 · If you’re short on biners, try girth-hitching a cam’s sling (fig. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. The minis are too small for anything, other than zipper locksbut as zipper locks, the minis/lockable minis are great. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. Slings are better suited for men; uncomfortable to women. Sling Length May 26, 2020 · I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. How much equipment are you planning to have along with that lunch and sweater? Slings at first seem great but have noticed that over an extended period of time or with heavy equipment it does become quite cumbersome. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. Dyneema. Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't imagine doing it if there were an alternative. Sep 14, 2006 · I used tied runners for a long time until I found the super-light weight 8mm Mammut sewn slings. Gloves only for aid or FA. I like to use a runner-runner (aka sling-sling) to free up some biners and room on my harness. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. When rehabbing I put the sling through/around weights Apr 12, 2019 · We tested the 11mm wide, 120cm long version, which allowed us to easily equalize two anchor pieces with a figure-eight knot. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. How are slings constructed? Slings can be constructed in two ways: They can either be sewn or seamless. 6 million pounds. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. I don't think it's a good idea - I imagine catching a lead fall could injure the belayer since the sling is really too thin to spread the load. The weight of multiple climbing-quality biner can add up quickly. Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. For Multi-pitch. Posted by u/hnbike - 2 votes and 10 comments Yea seems like they aren’t making them anymore. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. Using a double length runner girth hitched to your tie-in, knotted as shown and clipped to your belay loop allows you to unclip one end from your belay loop and tether yourself to the anc This. Clip another QD between the bolts. Get the scoop on how it stands up to the competition in our review of climbing slings. 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. 5 cm (1 in) wide tubular webbing to build an anchor. Think I'm the only one that's gone back to nylon. 5, but don’t do this with a wired nut; the cinching action of the girth-hitch can cut the sling in a fall). So, the benefit of a rabbit runner is more flexibility. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. if it is, you did something else very wrong. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. The most important items IMHO are shoes with good grip on slick granite and good gloves that can grip the cables (I think I chose a pair of weight lifting gloves). As long as you leave your locker clipped into the sling and either locked back on your belay loop or clipped through the loop on your sling that you use to rap it should be safe because the sling can't unravel. Apr 11, 2023 · A rabbit runner is a normal sling, cut open. You usually need no more than 1 or 2. Just belay from the ground. One belay device and an extra locker is plenty. Runners come in different sizes and are either secured in a loop via stitching or a knot. I just put this together from closet gear after receiving a Tindeq as a gift a few weeks ago. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. ) A sling, (Typically a dynamic sling such as Beal Dynaclip or a homemade one) 3 Locking carabinners Belay/Rappel device 2 prussick's slings one "Maillon Rapide" to be lowered on a bolt in case I don't send the climb and there's nobody stronger around. 25 less, making the choice between the two simple. only exceptions: two kevlar/aramid slings for tunnels. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. The stiffness is great to shove it through the tunnel. The extra length is needed to ensure the ice screws are situated at least 30 cm apart, so they won’t both fail in case of an ice fracture. 0. A full backpack provides more of a balance weight distribution. If you can find second hand I highly recommend. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . I just have a pre rigged sling on my rack where I just have to clip the bolts and have a bomber anchor with minimal extension. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. Weight savings or some bullshit, I dunno. You will typically use a 2. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. When my dyneema draws became rather fuzzy from use my partners started complaining about them & I replaced them with nylon. These are identical to a normal sling in strength and weight. If that's your SWL, using the 5:1 ratio, you'd want 2000lb (~10kN) rated gear. Aug 9, 2016 · Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. Follower has a nut tool, maybe a water bottle. sling of the purple c3 (only bd cam i own) See full list on outdoorgearlab. Basically, once the ends are clipped together it’s identical to a normal sling. Paired with a carabiner and a sling I can put it around my foot and pull upwards or hang from a tree and pull down on when outdoors to warm up. It may adjust when being weighted though. best to gain experience using slings, cord, rope and develop a feel for what works best for YOU in THAT situation. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. Personally, I think the whole static vs. I augment my kit with Nitize plastic s-biner #4 (25lbs) and #2. I still usually have the extra biners racked as a football at the back of my harness in case I need them, but usually rack 4 or 5 slings on the sling (as shown in the video), maybe more if I am expecting a pitch with slung chickenheads for pro. Every single one had quickdraws as part of their rack. I've met a lot of new climbing partners the last couple years, like a lot, and I've used a lot of their gear. 10, but the point is that you're simply completely wrong on this one. If you don't have a belay device with a 'guide mode' you can belay from the top using a redirect. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. By doubling the runner through the cam’s sling (fig. half the strength and weight of a normal sling. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. Yes, you could achieve the same with weights, but I find that say for weight x, up to that weight, it feels like it won't move off the ground, and so it is far harder to determine when you're ready. Aug 31, 2020 · Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. You should also become more c I usually rack my nuts at the front of my front gear loops and cams running smallest to largest at the back (also front loops). Flat webbings are what you typically see on your backpack straps. com Climbing Slings. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. There I found a quad easier and faster to setup than getting the right length with draws. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. Growing Slings. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. Jun 15, 2020 · Nylon slings could be made weaker by using less material to get compete better with dyneema slings in size/weight. xkqztp vhakza sexc mhqcz lalaf pkke ocg lvsg rxxjvgp dsryas ijdzay znl lrso qry nxl